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Hanoi & Hanoi

The tables — all three of them — are reached via a narrow alleyway, past a downstairs kitchen, and finally up a vertigo-inducing flight of stairs. Outside there are corrugated steel panels covered in ivy, a rusty blue bicycle and colorful plastic chairs of the kind that can be found at any roadside Vietnamese food stall or bar. The single banh mi on the menu is of the minced and roasted pork variety. In comparison with Takadanobaba’s offerings, the key flavors are amped up: bigger dose of citrus, hotter coriander and a thorough lacing of spicy and incandescent sriracha sauce.