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Shilingol

It is with the fourth course that you find yourself in the middle of the Mongolian heartland -- in culinary terms, that is. Changsanmaha is, apparently, the be-all and end-all of the local cuisine, served in every ger in the Gobi and beyond. It is meat (mutton, need you ask?) simply boiled and served on the bone -- a substantial chunk of spine, along with a rib or two.