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Kushiwakamaru

Kushiwakamaru boasts all the attributes of a classic neighborhood yakitori shop. It's convivial, affordable, always busy and often filled with clamor and smoke. It's clean (but not too clean), the chicken is good (though never brilliant), they grill it over charcoal (essential for flavor), the drinks are cheap, and the service prompt (they're too busy to be chatty, though).