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Kanda Matsuya

Because the noodles are te-uchi -- freshly rolled and chopped by hand by a white-clad assistant who works nonstop in the glass-fronted booth at the back of the room -- aficionados prefer to eat them unadorned, either mori (cold, with a dip) or zaru (the same, with nori), which are served on handsome trays lacquered maroon and black.