/

Kamozou

This is absolutely as you would expect, since Kamozou is the third in the growing stable of sake-specialist taverns run by Noriharu Nozaki — among them the self-named Nozaki in Shinbashi. Not that you will find him behind the counter at Kamozou these days. If he is not at the newest of his four operations (Uraya, in Ikebukuro), he is likely visiting regional kura, even rolling up his sleeves to help produce batches of sake.

Confronted with the lengthy sake list he has compiled here, it helps if you know the basics, a few kura, styles or prefectures you like. Dewazakura, Denshu and Kokuryu are three reliable names to start with, and so too are our perennial favorites Tedorigawa and Kudoki Jozu. But it’s hard to go wrong here. The small serving sizes make everything affordable, except for the most exclusive bottles.