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Yoshicho

You’d never stumble on it by chance. Hidden from view on the second floor of a newish building just off Sakurada-Dori, there is little inside or out to suggest that this unpretentious restaurant, with its open kitchen, glass-enclosed grill, counter seats and three small tables, is anything out of the ordinary. It’s the food and not the setting that makes Yoshicho worth searching out.

Unlike many yakitori chefs whose skills are solely limited to grilling, owner-chef Kenji Yoshimoto is trained in the spectrum of traditional Japanese cuisine. He has a deftness of touch that is obvious from the outset, even in the otoshi (starter) that arrives with your first drink — perhaps a small serving of nanonhana greens with an aemonodressing lightly spiced with mustard.

Although chicken is the main event and your reason for being there, Yoshimoto has a couple of appetizers on his menu that are well worth trying. One we loved was his take on onsen-tamago (soft-coddled eggs), which he serves chilled on a gelee of rich chicken stock.