The basic ramen — ask for chūka-men — is a fine, delicate noodle bathed in an almost clear broth lightly seasoned with shoyu and served in stylish wide white bowls. Ditto with the chunkier tsukemen dipping noodles. The dip, also shoyu-based, is lighter now, and gone is the cabbage/beansprout mix that used to make them so hearty. But the kakuni pork belly is as good and satisfying as ever.
The new Suzuran is just a minute’s walk from Ebisu Station, on the right side of Komazawa-dori, just after the first lights as you head toward the Shibuya-bashi Crossing.