Afuri Ebisu

Afuri does wafu ramen for the new generation who prefer quality, flavor and a certain finesse.

The broth is light, made with dashi stock and spring water from Tanzawa. The noodles are adorned with thick slices of juicy cha-shu pork that are grilled to order over charcoal; half a soft-boiled egg, with a healthy golden yolk; and fresh mizuna greens. Our favorite options are the yuzu-shio ramen, with a heady citrus fragrance; and the special winter tsukemen served with a separate savory miso-based dip.

But this is no gourmet restaurant. The decor is monochrome concrete. A flat-screen monitor plays rock videos or flickering anime movies. You buy your ticket from an ancient machine at the door, and then wait (inevitably) to be shown to a small stool at the long, 20-seat counter. Ramen can never be called “slow food,” but here they give the noodles a little extra care and attention.