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Toyoken

Dinner at Toyoken reads like a roll call of retro comfort food from a long-passed era -- but with one big difference. This is not the bill of fare at an old-school company canteen or some fusty provincial hotel. You're in a grand new dining room in the heart of Tokyo, and this menu has been put together by one of Japan's best and most innovative chefs, Yoshihiro Narisawa. His mission: to restore to its former glory the genre of Japanese cuisine known as yoshoku.