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Zeshin

Review excerpt: Zeshin follows close to the traditional strictures of kaiseki, but colors outside the lines a little. Nothing chef Sekine serves at Zeshin is shocking, but there are certain surprises and skills on display. His prawn stuffed with cream cheese, and Spanish mackerel studded with kernels of roasted rice — “Rice Krispies” — was unexpected. And his artful blade skills were clear when dicing up konbu seaweed to make a grass-like decoration. Above all this is his dedication to freshness: the sashimi plate of katsuo tataki (skipjack tuna, the edges lightly seared) and sea bream was superb.