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Wai Tan Hong Lu Deng

Try to find Wai Tan Hong Lu Deng, a small and tatty shop — which gets especially cold on winter nights — that serves Chinese dumplings. The kitchen stands on one side of the narrow thoroughfare, with tables covered in vinyl tablecloths on the other side. The dumplings run the gamut from petit steamed shoronpo to crispy gyōza heavyweights that will test your chopstick dexterity.