The lunchtime menu is limited. Besides the bento, there are usually only a few other choices: typically a donburi (rice bowl) served with tempura or chicken and egg. At night the menu is far more generous, with as many options as any good izakaya (Japanese -style pub). But if you’ve come for lunch, go with the bento. The inspiration for the style of cooking inside is kaiseki ryōri, Japan’s elaborate traditional multicourse cuisine. At Ukon, they’ve scrubbed off the layers of pomp and ceremony, and packed what’s left into a wooden box. But what’s left is still substantial: fatty chunks of tuna in soy sauce, and tempura of prawn, sweet potato, maitake mushrooms and pumpkin. Vegetables on one side of the bento — bamboo shoots, pumpkin and eggplant simmered in broth — contrast with pickled cabbage and tomato on the other side.