Gokan is located in an office building refurbished in the European style that flourished in the Meiji Era (1868-1912). It’s more roomy than Kitahama Retro and has a genteel doorman who wouldn’t be out of place outside a hotel on Fifth Avenue. It also refers to itself quaintly as “Patisserie de Samourai” — sadly there were no warriors sipping on green tea during my visit. Check out the seasonal items in the bakery downstairs — most of which are not offered on the eat-in menu — before you’re escorted to one of the tea rooms upstairs. The freshly baked sweet potato and chestnut pastry dumplings were delicious.