/

Fukushima Mori

Review excerpt: Lunch opened with a tapas-like offering that included temaki uni, a little glob of urchin atop a small sheet of seaweed. The combination of the iodine-rich urchin and the briny nori was superb. As with all self-respecting kaiseki chefs, the team at Fukushima Mori has an eye for detail and decoration: the anchovy on cracker bread was decorated with a sprig plucked from an ear of sweetcorn. The marine motif was rounded out with a small bowl of mozuku, an edible seaweed, served in a vinegary dashi. The thick, starchy Korean soup of hamo (conger eel), leek and wheat gluten was more decorative than it was flavorful.

This was improved upon with the sashimi course, which was one of those times that I wished the restaurant’s no-photo policy didn’t apply. The sashimi cuts of minke whale, salt water eel and golden eye snapper were served on a small mountain of ice inside a deep earthenware bowl that resembled a sea shell. Behind me, a group of five fished from a bowl so big it took over their entire table.