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Tempura Endo Yasaka

Review excerpt: Unsurprisingly, what you get at Tempura Endo Yasaka is mostly tempura. Endo’s take on the tempura canon includes a few standouts, particularly the tai (seabream), which was wrapped inside a perilla leaf and encrusted in fried batter. The shiitake mushroom comes wrapped in minced prawn and a thin coat of batter. (A quick word about Endo’s batter: It’s light enough that it might take off and ascend into heaven, except the team of chefs endow it with gravitas and crunchiness.) But, there are also brief forays beyond tempura, as with the opening dish of yuba, delicate layers of tofu skin. This is a well-considered primer, because the best tempura is also an exercise in delicacy. Endo does this well, even with his other non-tempura dishes: The salad of sweet potato — diced thin-as-a-thread, flash fried and served with daikon in a lime dressing — was glorious.