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Gion Sasaki

The main restaurant is housed in an old townhouse, with lanterns adorning the steps and kimono-clad receptionists guide you to your seat in the main room. Sasaki is a kappo (counter-style) restaurant — and what a counter it is. It seats 19 people, if my count is correct, and the many chefs (there appears to be one for every customer) bring a certain degree of theatricality to the preparation of meals, which lessens the stuffiness and formality that often comes with haute cuisine. But take note that all meals begin being served at the same time, so be sure you’re punctual or you’ll upset the orchestration.