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Gion Nishikawa

Owner-chef Masayoshi Nishikawa was just 33 when he opened here and he brings a youthful energy and subtle contemporary touches to the classic kaiseki canon: He serves the sashimi's wasabi on an ice-plant leaf; he sometimes uses a gas blowtorch to sear fish, rather than his charcoal grill; and he even adds sweet corn to his summer rice.