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Ajikyu

Review excerpt: Occupying the ground floor of its owner’s home, the seating area and kitchen are crammed into a tiny space, and even the handwritten daily menu is crowded onto a small blackboard. When deciding what to try, it’s best to follow the whims, directions and recommendations of the unimpeachable matriarch who presides over Ajikyu.

We started with a plate of sashimi chū-toro (medium fatty tuna) and ika (squid). Both had a buttery softness, and unleashed a subtle sweetness as they dissolved. The chef has spent the better part of 50 years cooking — nearly 40 at Ajikyu — all the while forging relationships with local fishmongers who have access to exemplary fish.