The only option for lunch is a prix fixe meal that comes in at just under ¥4,500. It opened with kuruma ebi (tiger prawns) served on two hunks of white asparagus and lightly dressed in a delicious take on Thousand Island dressing — it is more vinegary than the standard and has, in keeping with the season, a hint of ume (plum). The vinegar motif was also evident in the prawns, which had a wonderful smokiness to them. Next up was a suimono (clear soup) featuring hamo (conger eel), but perhaps “featuring” is the wrong verb to use here. At this time of year hamo is very much the flavor of the moment in Japanese cooking, but the thing about it (and fugu, too) is that, like a runway model, it’s more suited for hanging other things upon.