Food is a staple fare of the media, whether in the form of recipes, restaurant reviews or photographs of meals to die for. Food is health; food is economics; food is culture; but food is also politics.

"Dis-moi ce que tu manges, je te dirai ce qui tu es," intoned cheesy French gastronome Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (1755-1826). "Tell me what you eat, I will tell you what you are."

The philosopher Ludwig Andreas Feuerbach (1804-72) truncated the bon mot when he gave German tongue to this: "Der Mensch ist, was er isst" — "You are what you eat."