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Miura oldest to climb Everest but some facts overlooked


The government has just established a new public award named after alpinist-skier Yuichiro Miura for “adventurers who challenge themselves to the limit of human potential.” Originally the recipients of the prize, whom Miura will select himself, were going to be seniors, but at its namesake’s insistence all ages are now eligible. Nevertheless, the deed that inspired the honor, Miura’s conquering of Mount Everest last month at the age of 80, thus making him the oldest person ever to scale the world’s highest peak, has been heralded as a valuable inspiration for Japan’s boomers. If Miura can reach the summit of Everest at such an advanced age and with a faulty ticker to boot (four operations for arrhythmia since 2008, not to mention a history of diabetes and hypertension), then think of what mere mortals can accomplish.

The mass media tend to ignore those aspects of a human-interest story that might detract from its positive effects. Nobody wants to be a wet blanket — except maybe the weekly magazines.

One, Bunshun, published an article in its June 13 issue that attempted to temper the excitement of Miura’s accomplishment with a balanced accounting of how he went about it. The reporter mentions that no one can deny that the feat was impressive, but it’s not as if any healthy 80-year-old, even one who trained as hard as Miura did, can do the same thing. You need money, and lots of it, and for all intents and purposes the Miura family, which is in the mountain-climbing business, is run like a corporation. This was the octogenarian’s third successful climb of Everest, and though it was characterized as one man versus nature, it was actually a huge financial undertaking. A dozen sponsors jockeyed for the right to have their names printed on the flag that Miura waved when he reached the summit because there was a cameraman there to film it, ostensibly for record-keeping purposes but also because those sponsors expected it. According to Miura’s daughter, Emiri, the climb cost ¥150 million, of which ¥100 million came from sponsors, ¥18 million from individual “supporters,” and the rest from fees the alpinist received for speaking engagements and media appearances.

The ascent itself cost ¥30 million. On top of that the Everest authority charges ¥7 million for permission to scale the mountain. Oxygen tanks were ¥5-6 million, and the rest was split among 18 Sherpa guides, including five cooks; two professional Japanese climbers, each of whom have climbed Everest at least a dozen times before and who “accompanied” Miura and his son, Gota, to the top; and seven other Japanese “attack” crew members, including a full-time physician. In addition, several hundred porters kept the base camp supplied during the climb.

In order to put this outlay of money and manpower into proper perspective, Bunshun looks at a much less successful climb that took place the same week. Chizuko Kono, along with two other climbers, froze to death while attempting to reach the top of the Himalayas’ Mount Dhaulagiri, the seventh highest peak the world.

In a press statement, Kono’s husband said that his 66-year-old wife was a lifelong alpinist who put her love of mountains on hold while she raised the couple’s children, and resumed climbing after she turned 50 and quit her job as a nurse. She had no sponsors and did not solicit funding. She used her savings to pay for everything and had scaled mountains all over the world. Dhaulagiri was going to be her last because, according to her husband, “we ran out of money.” The cost of her fatal climb? Two million yen. According to the former representative of a mountain-climbing league that Kono belonged to, the members pay their own way and do not employ elaborate support staff “in the Miura style,” which isn’t to say the members resent that style. Kono herself followed the Miura training regimen whenever she prepared for an ascent.

Though Kono’s death was widely reported in the press, few made the unavoidable comparison, which may be more instructive than Miura’s victory. Mountain climbing has gained in popularity among older people over the past two decades, as evidenced by the increasing number of middle-aged and elderly who die on mountains every year. The cautionary aspects of Kono’s failure may be more to the point than the promotional aspects of Miura’s success, but journalists, except for those at Bunshun, have avoided it.

Last week, NHK’s in-depth news show “Closeup Gendai” elaborated on Miura’s health situation with the aim of showing how a disciplined approach to staying fit could make one’s twilight years more productive and enjoyable. It’s certainly a worthwhile topic, but Miura is such an exceptional case — staying fit is essentially his job — that applying it with the same degree is out of the question for the average person.

But another aspect of the climb that the media played down is the issue of whether Miura deserves to hold the record he so earnestly coveted. During the descent he was airlifted the rest of the way from the 6,500 meter line because of dodgy ice and exhaustion. Bunshun quotes several anonymous alpinists, as well as one famous one, Ken Noguchi, who, while not mentioning Miura by name, say that you can’t call a climb “complete” unless you walk all the way down the mountain, too. During the many appearances that Miura made on news shows after his return, no interviewer asked him about the helicopter, which cost ¥2 million to charter; in other words, the equivalent of the entire cost of Kono’s fatal climb.

This might sound like splitting hairs if Miura and his son hadn’t made such a big deal at the postclimb press conference about proof. When reporters asked about a proposed bid by an 81-year-old Nepalese climber to best Miura’s record, he welcomed the gambit as long as there was incontrovertible evidence that the climber made it to the top and is as old as he says he is. When you’re running a successful business you have to play by the rules.

  • Masa Chekov

    “Bunshun quotes several anonymous alpinists, as well as one famous one, Ken Noguchi, who, while not mentioning Miura by name, say that you can’t call a climb “complete” unless you walk all the way down the mountain, too. ”

    No, this is very much splitting hairs. He summitted, did he not?

  • Yumi Yamamoto

    I see no political incorrectness in Mr. Miura’s success in climbing the top of the earth.
    What’s wrong with having sponsors to financially back him up? Most professional athletes are financially sponsored.
    The only one who could point out the wrongness of his success is the one who climbed to the top and returned all alone and naked without any food or Sherpa. Every single climber more or less spends money for equipment and Sherpas, which may include cooks and supporters. It’s only the matter of how much, and is there any officially recognised definition on the correct amount to spend for a climbing?
    Mr. Miura used no tax of ours, that I have no no reasons to object his accomplishment. He only did his job in his own way.
    What really counts is his health condition and endurance which he has built on his own at his age, it is perfectly subject to be applauded.

  • Vigarano

    “He summitted, did he not?”

    “Summitting” is generally considered to require a successful descent. Many climbers have exhausted themselves on ascents and died on the descent. The reward for those unable to whistle up a ¥2 million helivac from the upper slopes of Everest is to be immortalized – with dozens of others – as a frozen statue along the side of the climbing route.

  • Rod Barker

    this may seem amazing, but in reality it is meaningless. the mountains don’t care if we climb them or not. what’s more important is that humans are ruining these beautiful places to prove something to themselves and others. there are piles of rubbish and shit building up in the places we call amazing and wild. we need to start caring more for this planet and be less focused on ego based human achievement

  • http://www.mjfimages.com/ MJF Images

    He’s 80, give him the benefit of the doubt! If I did that though, don’t give me credit. You have to descend to have done the mountain. And that’s whether you fly into a point close to the base or not. The climb is essentially from the base of the mountain and back, right? I’m just being simple here. If Hillary could’ve taken a plane to Lukla he would have. That village is a long ways from the base of Everest!