Dead pigs in river show dark side of China’s food industry


Thousands of dead pigs in a Shanghai river have cast a spotlight on China’s poorly regulated farm production, with the country’s favorite meat joining a long list of food scares.

The number of carcasses recovered in recent days from the Huangpu River — which cuts through the commercial hub and supplies over 20 percent of its drinking water — has passed 13,000, with authorities in Shanghai saying Monday that 9,460 dead pigs had been found since March 8. The upstream city of Jiaxing earlier reported that it has recovered another 3,601 dead pigs from its streams.

Shanghai has blamed the farmers of Jiaxing in neighboring Zhejiang Province for casting pigs thought to have died of disease into the river upstream, but officials from the area have admitted to only a single producer doing so.

The city has stepped up inspections of markets to stop meat from the dead animals from reaching dining tables of its 23 million people.

From recycled cooking oil to dangerous chemicals in baby milk powder, a series of food scandals in China has caused huge public concern.

Pork is king in China, accounting for 64 percent of total meat output last year, and urban residents with growing wallets and waistlines ate 20 kg of the meat per person in 2011.

Images of Shanghai’s dead pigs have hit the nation’s collective gut, but in the village of Zhulin, a major hog-raising center in Jiaxing, the farmers claim their innocence in the scandal.

“The government is very strict. We give our pigs vaccinations. If they are sick, they can’t be sold,” said Pan Juying, 57.

But a bloated piglet lying by the roadside 100 meters away from a stream showed that not all dead animals are properly disposed of.

Wang Wei, a veterinarian for Hengyuan Co., which produces medicines for farm animals, said a large number of pigs died from unknown causes in Zhejiang just before and after the Lunar New Year in February.

“It must have been a big pig farm” that was responsible for events in Shanghai, he said in Zhulin’s main street, which is lined with animal medicine and feed stores. “They can’t control an outbreak of infectious disease.”

Despite laws against the practice, animals that die from disease in China can end up in the food supply chain or improperly disposed of.

In Wenling, also in Zhejiang, authorities announced last week that 46 people had been jailed for up to 6½ years for processing and selling pork from more than 1,000 diseased pigs.

China was rocked by one of its biggest-ever food safety scandals in 2008 when the industrial chemical melamine was found to have been illegally added to dairy products, killing at least six babies and making 300,000 people ill.

Across China, cheap recycled cooking oil is made illegally from leftovers scooped out of restaurant drains. Amid public disgust authorities arrested more than 30 people over its sale, but it remains commonplace.

In another recent incident, KFC was hit by controversy after revealing some Chinese suppliers provided chicken with high levels of antibiotics, in what appeared to be an industrywide practice.

Zhu Yi, a professor at China Agricultural University, said that the country’s vast number of small-scale farmers were “hard to supervise and regulate.”

“Food safety is an issue that requires continuous efforts, you simply cannot put everything right once and for all,” she said. “The current livestock breeding model is too crude and the standards too low.”

However, large-scale production also carried risks of its own, she added. “Every country has its own problems,” she said. “The highly industrialized European Union was caught up by the horse-meat scandal.”