| Aug 12, 2008

It ain't too bad being a joshi or a danshi

by Kaori Shoji

For a long time I couldn’t pronounce the word otoko (男, man) without slightly blushing; I didn’t much like the word in English either, but in Japanese it sounded a little vulgar and what women of my grandmother’s generation would call hashitanai (はしたない, crude ...

Harboring dreams

| Feb 1, 2008

Harboring dreams

by Kit Nagamura

Second of two parts At 4 a.m., southern Minato Ward’s Shibaura Pier is an indigo city of shipping containers, wind-borne detritus and flatbed cargo trucks. It is spooky and unlit but for Rainbow Bridge and its sparse predawn traffic. By 5 a.m., fishing boats ...

Simmering over a nabe hot pot

| Feb 1, 2008

Simmering over a nabe hot pot

by Robbie Swinnerton

The sleet was lashing down, the wind whipping off Tokyo Bay as we trudged the streets of Ningyocho, eastern Nihonbashi, in search of dinner. Appalling conditions, certainly, but worth braving for the down-home charms of an evening at Yoshiume. Just arriving there was enough ...

Tamegoro Sudo

| Dec 11, 2007

Tamegoro Sudo

by Judit Kawaguchi

Tamegoro Sudo, 50, is a movie producer and actor whose many friends in Tokyo’s downtown Asakusa area provide him with the hilarious characters and plots in his movies. His five “Dekotora no Shu (Shu, the Dekotora Man)” movies star his favorite decorated trucks and ...

A great escape to Biwako

Aug 31, 2007

A great escape to Biwako

by Simon Bartz

Jasmine, a writer who hails from Hiroshima and is much older than me but has a refined magnetizing beauty that cannot be ignored, pours me a cup of green tea on my first ever junket. It’s just before the world turns blue; just before ...

Home to the outsider

| Aug 3, 2007

Home to the outsider

by Kit Nagamura

Western Taito Ward is a paradise for nonconformists who stray off the beaten track. Throughout the incense-scented alleys of Yanaka, and across the parklands of Ueno, it’s hard to miss the area’s preponderance of “strays”; tourists, artists and the homeless who, with a surprising ...

Escape from Tokyo Part II

Jul 27, 2007

Escape from Tokyo Part II

by Mark Schreiber

I’ve been to Nikko countless times, but really could kick myself for putting off a trip to Edo Wonderland for so long. I finally visited on June 23, and fortunately the delayed onset of the rainy season got me there on a day with ...

Sweltering in matsuri mayhem

May 15, 2007

Sweltering in matsuri mayhem

by Manami Okazaki

As the temperature rises and languid, lazy days melt into humid nights, Japan shifts gear, readying itself for the plethora of local matsuri ceremonies that blossom across the nation in the months ahead. Matsuri, or festivals, are provincial gatherings usually held on Shinto or ...