Hoping to catch the earliest blush of autumnal colors, I seek out the Important Cultural Property of Gokokuji, a prominent temple located in Tokyo's Bunkyo Ward. A satellite map shows it embraced by a forest of trees. I suspect a cemetery might lurk below the leaf canopy, but in late October who would want to say "boo" to that?
The Yurakucho Line's Gokokuji Station offers easiest access to the temple, but choosing to explore the surroundings first, I exit the Marunouchi Line's Shin-Otsuka Station instead. I wander south down a precipitous slope, flanked by clothing shops for the silver set, humble residences and the backsides of rust-touched apartment buildings. When the October sun picks out a pedestrians-only alleyway, I thread it, emerging on another slightly larger road. From there, the thumping sound of machinery draws me like a zombie me toward it.
The din emanates from a small bindery, where Shizuo Kakizaki, 68, mans a vintage harikomi (paste-up) machine that applies glue to connect lining paper to the contents of booklets.