Chicken and charcoal are a classic combination: Morsels of meat carefully skewered and cooked over glowing coals until they're tender, juicy and golden brown. Good yakitori is always a pleasure. At its very best it's worth crossing the city for. And Ranjatai's certainly belongs in that category.

Ranjatai is a one-minute stroll into the back streets behind the Jinbocho crossing. From the outside it looks suspiciously smart for a yakitori joint. But that is appropriate: There is a lot more going on here than just grilled chicken — no matter how good it is.

Almost 10 years have passed since owner Hideyuki Wadahama set up shop here. He honed his skills at the renowned Bird Land in Ginza, the restaurant that popularized the idea of inventive yakitori. The scale may be smaller at Ranjatai but the standards are, if anything, even higher. Wadahama's expertise and dedication to quality are apparent throughout his ¥6,000 omakase (chef's selection) tasting menu.