On the wall at Gion Sasaki there are two signs depicting mobile phones with lines through them. Bringing your phone with you is allowed, but speaking on it is a no-no. When I visited for lunch, an Asian tourist dining on his own nearby barely put his phone down during the entire nine-course kaiseki meal. He was, I fear, so distracted by apps, messages, news updates and pictures he may have missed one of Kyoto's best meals. I dedicate this review to him, for he was there in body, but that is all.

Reservations don't come easy at Michelin-starred Gion Sasaki, especially for the kaiseki lunch set, which is priced relatively reasonably (¥6,000) for a two-star establishment.

The main restaurant is housed in an old townhouse, with lanterns adorning the steps and kimono-clad receptionists guide you to your seat in the main room. Sasaki is a kappo (counter-style) restaurant — and what a counter it is. It seats 19 people, if my count is correct, and the many chefs (there appears to be one for every customer) bring a certain degree of theatricality to the preparation of meals, which lessens the stuffiness and formality that often comes with haute cuisine. But take note that all meals begin being served at the same time, so be sure you're punctual or you'll upset the orchestration.