I still find it amusing that so many chefs at high-end Japanese restaurants wear neckties beneath their white chef uniforms. It seems at odds with the temperature and temperament of a kitchen, but I suppose it's no more amusing or wondrous than the traditional chef's hat, that elaborate, elongated white crown worn more for marketing purposes than anything else. In Japan, the chef's necktie, I think, is for presentation purposes: if you are going to serve fabulous looking food you should look the part.

All the chefs at Aji Fukushima wear ties, but don't be led astray by their formal wear; they are an inherently welcoming bunch.

This is a relatively new restaurant — opened in 2013 — on a quieter side street in Kyoto's bustling Gion district. From the outside, Aji Fukushima blends in seamlessly with the beautifully appointed machiya (townhouses) surrounding it. The only sign that this is a restaurant are the noren curtains in the entrance, which are taken down between lunch and dinner. There are a few private dining areas, but the best seats are at the counter in the main dining room. The counter seats no more than six, maybe seven in a pinch, but what a beautiful space it is, finished nearly entirely in Japanese cypress.