In a city as rapidly changing as Tokyo, it's a major feat for any restaurant to survive over four decades. To do so on the edge of Shibuya's teenage wasteland is even more remarkable. So let's raise a cup — of premium sake of course — to the one and only Unosato.

From the outside, it would be easy to think this venerable, much-loved izakaya tavern must be way past its use-by-date. After all, it certainly looks its age.

A bushy stand of bamboo half obscures the entrance, with its glowing andon lamp, long white noren curtain and a curious window display of ceramic sake cups.