Let's hear it for lunch. Long, leisurely sessions at the table, with multiple courses and an equal number of wines to go with them. And then at the end, lingering over coffee and conversation. That's the way it happens every Saturday at Chic Peut-etre.

In truth, you are always going to eat well at this great little restaurant on the nether side of Nihonbashi — any day of the week, lunch or dinner. But there's something special about booking in here for the best part of the afternoon, till the shadows start to lengthen, and just indulging.

In part, it's the location. Hatchobori is a low-rise neighborhood, not far from Ginza or Tokyo Station, but with none of the glitter and buzz. On weekdays, it hums with quiet purpose. But at the weekends, it sleeps. From your table you see no movement on the street outside. There is no sense that you are idling while others work.