Kobe has its beef, Oma has its tuna and Nagoya has its chicken. Famous nationwide as some of the best poultry available in Japan, Cochin chicken is available at select stores throughout Nagoya at a premium price. One such restaurant that has a regular supply is the popular local yakitori (grilled chicken) chain Kinboshi.

While many may think of yakitori joints as being full of smoke and rowdy drunks in equal measure, Kinboshi is a far more civilized affair, with some of the best-quality skewers in the city. Although not everything on the menu is Cochin chicken, there is a fair selection, including bonjiri (neck meat, ¥200), negima (grilled thigh meat with green onions, ¥200) and tebasaki (Nagoya-style chicken wings, ¥200). The braver diner can also enjoy Cochin heart (¥180), liver (¥200) and gizzard (¥180). Typical sides such as tsukune (meatball, ¥180) and a variety of non-Cochin yakitori (¥180-300) are also available, each portion coming with two sticks.

Although it can get very busy, diners can choose to either sit at the bustling bar and see their food get expertly grilled, or opt for a more private table away from the main room. But even here, most tables are merely divided by a bamboo curtain, so it will always be a little lively. But if you are out for a good time with great food, you will be hard pressed to find a better venue.

4-3-25 Meieki Minami, Nakamura-ku, Nagoya-shi, Aichi-ken; 052-541-3050; www.kinboshi.net; open 5:30-11 p.m.; nearest station Nagoya; smoking OK; ¥2,500-3,500 per head (plus drinks); No English menu; no English spoken.