Let me first introduce the elevator at Tohkasaikan, a beautiful old Otis workhorse operated by levers and pulleys replete with a dial that wavers as you ascend. It is, in fact, the oldest elevator in Japan, and in a country where taking an elevator is about as quotidian as it comes, this elevator is a bit of a trip.
The building was designed by William Merrell Vories (born in Kansas, settled in Shiga), an English teacher turned architect, missionary and entrepreneur. It's a conspicuous building, part Spanish colonial, part Chinese Gothic, located on the banks of the Kamo River, and if it turned up in a Quentin Tarantino movie, it wouldn't be a surprise.
To the food: There's a lot on offer, and you can either go a la carte or with the prix-fixe courses. The menu remains the same all day, and it's pricey: Sets start at ¥5,000, all the way to ¥20,000. We went a la carte, and started with our pleasant server's suggestion: Peking duck. As it was a small portion, and I was with a big eater, our waitress advised a double order. When it arrived it still looked small, especially on the huge plate.