Precision. This is the premise on which everything at Pancotei is based, from the angle of the ear of wild asparagus, the volume of the froth on a glass of beer, the suitability of a single Japanese maple leaf as an adornment to a dish, the knot in the master's tie. Precision, bordering on perfection.

This month, Pancotei, a counter-style restaurant, turns 18. It is the pride and joy of chef and restaurateur Tsukasa Yamashiro, who has spent most of his working life making kushikatsu. Like many things Japanese, kushikatsu is simple in premise; its complexity comes through adornment and tinkering. The existential question for Yamashiro seems to be, "What bite-size ingredients can be pieced together on a skewer before lightly frying them in bread crumbs?"

At Pancotei, the answer is, "A lot."