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Berry’s Cafe: Burgers so good you can forgive the decor

Osaka’s Minami-Ibaraki is noteworthy for (at least) two things: a vertiginous lattice of train tracks and elevated highways topped by a monorail, and “Until Sun Child Rises,” a giant statue of a yellow anime-like astronaut boy that stands outside the train station. To this list, add Berry’s Cafe, which does one of the best burgers this side of space.

The theme of Berry’s is Americana: surfboards and registration plates on the wall, glass Coca-Cola bottles and wood paneling reminiscent of a log cabin. It’s kitsch, but who cares when the burgers are this good.

If Berry’s burgers were an American political party they would be conservative for their ingredients (tomato, lettuce, cheese, bacon, a great big patty and those all-important pickles) ensconced in meaty bread bun. This is the quintessential American classic — not quite yet on the Intangible Cultural Heritage list — served with super-waif fries. If your eyes are bigger than your belly, try the Volume Burger, which you’ll need a crane to steady.

Also on the menu are hot dogs, Spam caesar salad, sandwiches, loco moco (a burger and egg rice bowl) and a decent selection of beers from around the world (discounting the inclusion of Budweiser). If, like Jules Winnfield from “Pulp Fiction,” you “do love the taste of a good burger,” make haste to Berry’s.

2F, 1-1-13 Sawaraganishi, Ibaraki-shi, Osaka; 072-638-9999; http://r.gnavi.co.jp/k670800; open daily 11:30-a.m.-3 p.m., 6 p.m.-3 a.m.; nearest station Minami-Ibaraki; smoking OK; burgers from ¥750; no English menu; no English spoken.