The womenswear scene in Tokyo tends to fall under two camps: "mode" versus subculture styles that are so antithetical you'd imagine they'd be at each other with pitchforks if the city's residents weren't so congenial. Such conflicting interpretations were more apparent than ever before in the 2014-15 fall/winter runway collections that wrapped up in Tokyo on March 23.
In one corner we have the European mode stylings many of us are wont to don on any given day, with simple lines, great tailoring and uber-high-quality Japanese textiles. Setting this type of label apart from their Western counterparts is an achievement of out-of-the-ordinary styling on the catwalk. Take Facetasm, which often marries contrasting work and urban designs in its multi-layered looks. This season, there were frayed tailored jackets over hoodies and a standout wool skirts decorated with random curtains of pleats that looked like they'd been salvaged from other pieces. Take these ensembles apart and you'll find wearable yet unique pieces to add to your wardrobe. "Fashion is too easy now," designer Hiromichi Ochiai said. "I wanted to give some weight to my designs, and Tokyo fashion as a whole."
Yasutoshi Ezumi established himself as a master of balance in layering with a collection that was pleasing in every way. Indeed, it was one of the breakout collections of the season. His prints of Mondrian and geometric plaids on maxi skirts and asymmetrical peacoats looked outstandingly fresh when styled on the body and in movement. Although still young with only a couple collections under his belt, he is now a designer to keep an eye on.