The path to the top of the hill in Kaibara town is shaded by maple trees, still fiery in their demise so late in the season. The smooth stone steps turn once, twice, before petering out just before a large torii gate. Beyond this wooden marker lies the Kaibara Hachimangu Shrine, the oldest shrine in the Tamba region, an area of low peaks and fertile valleys in the northern part of Hyogo Prefecture. From behind the main hall, the low reverberation of a bell echoes across the valley. When the last thrum dies away, the only remaining sound is the rustle of the wind through the precinct of this 1,000-year-old shrine.
As the main Iwashimizu Hachimangu Shrine near the city of Kyoto – dedicated to the protection of the Imperial family – grew in importance in the 11th century, the decision was made to establish a branch temple in Kaibara as well. Construction was completed in 1024 and under the patronage of the Oda clan (known for famous family member and Japan-unifier Nobunaga), the shrine’s popularity rose considerably over the years. Victim of the rampant fighting during the Warring States Period (late -15th to late 17th century), the shrine was repaired at the direction of Nobunaga’s successor, Toyotomi Hideyoshi.
Today, it’s a quiet locale, except in early February when Kaibara’s priests host Japan’s oldest festival for warding off evil. In any season, though, a wander through the grounds is highly rewarding. Red-tinged maples bend their branches low over a line of polished stone lanterns. Colorful ema (prayer plaques) display the typical zodiac animals as well as scenes from local stories, including the legend of Nasu no Yoichi, an archer whose prowess in the Gempei War netted him a castle in neighboring Tottori Prefecture.