It's not easy for a new restaurant to stand out, or to even gain a foothold, in a city of the scale and sophistication of Tokyo. Bépocah manages that feat with ease — and in two very different ways.

Firstly, it is one of the most eye-catching restaurants to open so far this year. The long, thin, wedge-shaped building with its striking yellow-and-black facade has already become a minor landmark on its Harajuku side street.

More importantly, since the moment it threw back the impressive black wrought-iron gate that spans its front door, Bépocah has presented Tokyo with an authentic and particularly stylish array of Peruvian cuisine.