Tonkatsu is comfort food, gourmand grub — not a gourmet delicacy. So what are those hearty, unpretentious deep-fried breaded pork cutlets doing in an elegant little bar-style restaurant above one of Ginza's temples to high-end consumption?
Katsuzen has come a long way from its humble origins. Until 2005, it called Ikebukuro home; now it sits above Barneys New York, rubbing shoulders with steak and teppanyaki counters. But ignore the swish setting and the haute-coutured clientele: Katsuzen may serve some of the finest, most delicate tonkatsu in the city, but it still has a friendly, welcoming, personal touch.
That's because it's a family operation. Owner Etsuo Nagai has been a tonkatsu chef for almost 50 years now, working together with his wife, Kayoko. But these days they have their children alongside them. Son Daisuke shares kitchen duties, introducing many of the creative, artistic touches; while daughter Tomomi handles front-of-house duties. Between them, they've developed a niche for Katsuzen that is absolutely unique.