Whenever an exciting new restaurant is launched in Tokyo, usually it's all over the foodie magazines within days. Not so with Flatiron. Though it's been up and running since September, it's been flying well under the radar.

That is nothing to do with its location: The outer fringe of Roppongi is hardly obscure. Nor is it down to its diminutive size: After all, Tokyo specializes in boutique one-chef counter restaurants that seat 10 people maximum. But it has everything to do with the fact that Flatiron is inside and operated by the Tokyo American Club.

Time to clear up three common misapprehensions about TAC. First, it's not only for Americans: In fact the majority of members are Japanese. Second, it's not a moldering holdover from the Cold War era: Since the TAC was rebuilt (it reopened in 2010), the facilities and architecture are as sleek and modern as any high-end hotel.