First the sad news: One of Ebisu's finest, friendliest little French restaurants has upped and moved to the far side of town. Now the silver lining: Those selfsame pint-sized premises have reincarnated as a branch of Ebisu's finest, friendliest oyster emporium. Just six weeks since saying au revoir to the diminutive A Ta Gueule at the end of December, it's time to break out the bubbly to welcome its replacement, Fish House Oyster Bar East.
It was only three years ago that chef Toshihiro Matsushita set up his original Fish House, after parting company with Gotanda's pioneering Tokyo Oyster Bar. From the start he's had a formula that works wonderfully: premium oysters, both local and imported; an excellent range of other seafood dishes; plenty of affordable wine; and no airs or pretension at all.
That first branch has a great location: a bright, spacious curving mezzanine room with a huge picture window looking out over the five-street Ebisu-Nishi crossing just a few minutes north of the JR station. If there's a downside to the original location, it's that it feels just a tad too big and bright. That's where the new Fish House East, on the other side of the station (it's a few minutes' walk past Zest Cantina) scores.