It is often a struggle to cast an objective reviewer's eye over Tokyo collections, because fans of the microcosm that is Japanese fashion fall into two distinctly different camps: lovers of over-the-top quirkiness and ... regular consumers.

For the former, start with "forest girl" brand Fur Fur, who upped their own ante in this month's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo spring/summer collections with voluminous layers in creamy white and jet black that were hemmed with vintage-y lace and topped with impossibly giant corsages of tulle.

Then make your way to spunky brand Mintdesigns, which showed red lips and polka-dot motifs on baby-doll polo shirts and tinfoil-silver dresses.