Breakfast and afternoon tea: Two meals that rarely get discussed in this column. It's not a question of bias. It's just there are very few places in town that get them right.

In the case of breakfast, Tokyo really doesn't seem to bother. If you're not inside one of the larger hotels, you can forget about getting anything more substantial than coffee and a danish. Unless you're close to Roppongi Hills, that is, and the welcoming early morning glow emanating from Lauderdale.

To find anywhere serving a good cooked breakfast at 7 in the morning is in itself noteworthy. But to sit down in such a relaxed setting — high ceilings, mix-and-match old wooden furniture, a bar at one end and a comfy banquette at the other — is cause for outright celebration. So is Lauderdale's menu.