There's something special about places on the outer limits of great nations or continents; a sort of liberated and reflective space, away from it all, yet still connected to it. Think Alaska, Vancouver Island, the Koh Chang islands in Thailand, Xining in far western China or the pearl of Sri Lanka hanging off the neckace of India.
On Ishigaki in the Yaeyama Island group, some 400 km southwest of Okinawa, there's still a feeling of being in Japan, yet somehow it's quite different and free from the magnetic force-fields of Tokyo, Nagoya, Osaka, Fukuoka and the rest.
Blessed with a warm climate, mountainous jungles and amazing beaches, Ishigaki seems to be in its own time zone, most intimately experienced by bicycle, tent and snorkel. Reached by direct flights from Tokyo or via Naha, Ishigaki — covering a mere 230 sq. km — is also easy to explore by rental car or by using a ¥2,000, go-anywhere Michikusa bus pass.