There are half a dozen compelling reasons for heading to Kanda-Sudacho. The small pocket of back streets that survived the firebombs of World War II and — so far — the ravages of high-rise development is home to some of the city's most venerable restaurants.

There is Isegen, which has served anko nabe (monkfish hot pot) for 150 years; Botan, a chicken sukiyaki restaurant unchanged for nigh on a century; Takemura, purveyor of traditional Japanese sweets and tea; and the twin temples to soba noodles, Kanda Yabu and Matsuya. All are housed in beautifully preserved premises of weathered timber. All of them are classics.

Now add one more to that list: Kemuri. It may not have a patrician pedigree or an ornate facade to rival those of its near neighbors, but this charming bar- restaurant, which opened four years ago, fits in perfectly in the historic neighborhood.