Sapporo's famed Snow Festival — running this year from Feb. 5 to Feb 11. — began when a bunch of bored school kids in 1950 built a series of snow sculptures in Odori Park in the center of the city. Their enthusiasm during the hardships Japan was suffering after the war struck a chord with the population. By the time the Japan Self-Defense Force got involved in 1955, the festival was already a popular local event. But it was the efforts and equipment of the JSDF that allowed the building of sculptures on a grand scale.

Stretching for over a kilometer between the TV Tower and Sapporo City Document Museum, Odori Park is filled with snow sculptures both grand and small. These are often sponsored by companies or commemorate some event. Last year saw giant sculptures of the Hall of Supreme Harmony from the Forbidden City in Beijing, a replica of the Chakri Maha Prasat Palace commemorating the 120th anniversary of Thai-Japanese friendship, and a representation of Hikone Castle in Shiga Prefecture, which was celebrating its 400th anniversary. In the daytime there are shows such as snowboarding demonstrations on impossibly steep ramps. Toward the museum are smaller sculptures, entries from around the world in the International Snow Sculpture Competition. However, it is at night that people really come out to play. A singer bundled against the cold stands on a stage with a massive sculpture as a backdrop as the audience eats and makes merry from numerous food and drinks stalls.

Under the feet of so many visitors the snow becomes incredibly icy and it is very easy, as I did, to fall. Investing in clip-on studs — available from the station, shoe shops and souvenir shops — can help you keep up with the locals.