At this time of this year, every day feels like casual Friday. And as the humidity rises and the perspiration drops, simple is the way we like it. That means food that's light and flavorful, preferably with a good spicy kick to it — and strictly no dressing up for dinner.

There are plenty of Thai restaurants around the city that fit the bill in terms of cuisine. But when it comes to keeping it casual, few are as cheerful and easygoing — or as easy on the wallet — as Rak Thai Pheng Roi.

This friendly little diner, just big enough to seat 24, lies away from the Tokyo mainstream in Gotanda. It's not worth a special trip across town, but for anyone whose path takes them through this unfashionable neighborhood, this cozy kitchen is just the sort of place that could easily become a regular stopping-off point.