As the overnight buses roll into the car park at Kamikochi at six on a summer's morning, disgorging disheveled and sleep-deprived long-distance travelers from as far afield as Tokyo, Yokohama, Osaka and Kyoto, the whole area is already buzzing with people.

Tourists staying at the local hotels and lodges and campers are already out in force, taking advantage of the cool, early morning air. Meanwhile, hikers busy themselves making last minute preparations for their assault on the surrounding mountains.

They're here because nestling below the craggy peaks of Nagano Prefecture Kamikochi is the starting point for several hikes, including the Hodaka ranges, Jonen, and my favorite, Yarigatake which, at 3,180 meters, is the fourth highest mountain in Japan.