Whatever happened to Tokyo's love affair with the cafe-brasserie? A decade ago, the entire city seemed ready to embrace the Gallic ethos of sipping coffee and nibbling on croissants (or pastis and salade nicoise) while indulging in the leisurely sport of people watching.
Led by Cafe des Pres and Aux Bacchanales, the 1990s saw a sudden proliferation of sidewalk cafes, especially around the Omotesando-Harajuku-Shibuya axis. Sadly, most are long gone, chased from the scene by rising rents and the baneful influence of Starbucks and its ilk. The few that are left feel like relics from another century.
That is certainly not the case with Viron, on the ground floor of the Tokyo Building in Marunouchi, and not just because it's only been open a year or so. Much more it's about atmosphere and attitude, and the demeanor of the staff.