Stepping into the Lang
Helmut Lang sold his remaining stake in the brand that bore his name to majority stakeholder Prada Group in 2004, after leaving his mark as a one of the defining contributors to the minimalist movement of the late 1980s and '90s, as well as the inventor of the "couture-priced tank top." Last year, Prada Group sold the label on to Tokyo-based Link Theory Japan, who wasted no time in appointing husband-and-wife design team Michael and Nicole Colovos (of Habitual denim-label fame) as the new creative custodians of the Lang name. The New York-based couple appear to have taken to this experiment by echoing Lang's stark design ethos — the new store that opened last month on Kotto-Dori in Aoyama also reflects this vibe. The interior features walls of unfinished sheetrock and concrete with the only interruption a jungle-gymlike series of steel bars serving as racks that display the clean lines, sharp shapes and high-tech fabrics of the latest men's and women's collections. There is little in the way of color, except in accents of vivid yellow and green, and, most notably, that infamous tank top in a shocking electric blue. While devoted Lang fans may have mixed feelings about the reinterpretations of their preferred clothier's oeuvre, many will no doubt appreciate the well-cut jackets that will set you back approximately what one of those tank tops would have when the brand's original instigator was still at the helm.
5-13-2 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku 1F; 03-6419-8144; www.helmutlang.com