We were in the mood for eating Japanese -- nothing too fancy, but somewhere modern, with a sense of style, to match the elevated state engendered by strolling under the Meguro-gawa blossoms. We couldn't get into our favorite watering holes alongside the river. So we decided to try our luck at Ryuan [formerly named Daikonya], just a short taxi ride away in Sangenjaya.

When it opened, a dozen years ago, Ryuan's mix of contemporary architecture with traditional decor was considered cutting edge. These days it feels far less self-consciously hip, but it still looks good and draws a mature clientele, thanks to its quiet ambience and eclectic, new-wave izakaya cooking.

The ground floor is basically an oden bar. A dozen seats are arranged along a counter looking in at the slowly simmering pans of broth -- interestingly, they make both Kansai and the darker, richer Kanto styles. The downstairs dining room offers a more comfortable setting for longer sojourns.