[NOTE: Poivrier has closed.]
We joined the crowds and sauntered down to Omotesando Hills, not so much to explore the banal shopping-mall architecture but to see whether it retains a shred of the atmosphere of the old, charming, crumbling Dojunkai buildings. But there's nothing, not even a shrub or a shadow. So we went and looked for something to eat.
The biggest lines were outside the swish Zazza (it's pronounced with the same kind of stress as "pizzazz") the latest pasta/pizza place to bear the Salvatore Cuomo imprimatur. We never got close to sitting down, even in mid-afternoon. But that didn't matter a bit, because right opposite is Poivrier, a little cafe-shop where the sleek contemporary style is balanced by some seriously tasty food.